Cashmere's price reflects genuine scarcity and the labour intensity of its production, not simply branding. Each cashmere goat produces only around 150–200 grams of usable fine undercoat per year — the soft inner fibres must be carefully combed out by hand during the spring moult, separated from the coarser outer guard hairs, and then cleaned, de-haired, spun and dyed. The resulting yield per animal is very small compared to the fleece weight of a wool sheep. The finest grades — where only the softest, most consistent fibres are selected — command the highest prices because they require the most careful sorting and produce the smallest quantities. When you buy a quality cashmere yarn from a reputable brand, the price reflects a genuinely scarce natural material processed to a high standard, not a marketing premium on a commodity fibre.

Cashmere requires more attentive care than wool but is not difficult to maintain with the right approach. Most cashmere and cashmere-blend yarns should be hand washed in cool water — never warm or hot — with a small amount of gentle wool-safe detergent. Soak briefly, swirl without rubbing or agitating, then rinse thoroughly in water of the same temperature to prevent thermal shock. Press excess water out gently between towels and lay flat to dry, shaped to the correct dimensions. Never hang a wet cashmere garment, as the weight of the water will cause it to stretch irreversibly. For pilling — which is normal in the first few wears as loose surface fibres work free — a cashmere comb or fabric shaver can restore the surface without damaging the fibre. With proper care, a quality cashmere knit will last many years and actually soften further with each wash.

Some pilling in the first few wears is normal and expected with cashmere — it is not a sign of poor quality but a natural result of the loose surface fibres working free of the spun structure. This is particularly common with pure cashmere yarns where the fibre length is very fine. The good news is that most cashmere pilling is self-limiting: once the loose surface fibres have shed in the first few wears and washes, pilling typically slows significantly. Cashmere blended with merino or silk tends to pill less readily than pure cashmere, as the blended fibres add structural stability. For managing existing pills, a dedicated cashmere comb (gentler than a standard fabric shaver) is the recommended tool — it lifts pills cleanly without pulling fibres from the fabric. Washing inside out also helps reduce friction that contributes to surface pilling.

DK and 4 ply are the most commonly used weights for cashmere sweaters and cardigans. DK cashmere knits up more quickly and produces a slightly warmer, more structured fabric — well suited to everyday layering pieces, relaxed cardigans, and garments that will be worn regularly in Scotland's cooler months. 4 ply cashmere produces a finer, lighter fabric with more drape, better suited to garments intended for smart occasions or lighter indoor wear. Lace weight cashmere is occasionally used for fine shawls and wraps where the fibre's softness and lustre are showcased most fully, but requires more patience and experience to knit successfully. For a first cashmere project, a DK-weight cashmere or cashmere-merino blend in a simple stocking stitch or textured pattern gives the most satisfying results with the best balance of ease and elegance.

The ethics of cashmere production is a genuinely complex topic that has received significant attention in the textile industry over recent years. The core concern is overgrazing — the rapid growth of cashmere goat herds in Mongolia in response to global demand has put significant pressure on grasslands, with environmental consequences that are well documented. In response, a number of brands and certifying bodies have developed responsible sourcing frameworks, including the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) and various brand-specific traceability programmes. When purchasing cashmere yarn, it is worth checking whether the brand publishes information about their fibre sourcing — reputable yarn brands will typically acknowledge the issue and describe the steps they take to source responsibly. At The Orry Mill we stock brands that take their supply chain responsibility seriously, and we are happy to share what we know about the sourcing of specific products if you contact us in store or online.